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Kansas - Legends of Ahs IconKANSAS LEGENDS

Smoky Hill Trail - Heading for Gold

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When gold was found in Cherry Creek (now in Denver, Colorado) in 1859, thousands of people wanted to make their way to the Rocky Mountains to find their fortunes. At this time, there was no "official path” all the way across Kansas and the westernmost post was in Salina (about 175 miles southwest of Leavenworth, one of the jumping off points of the Oregon Trail.) Prior to this time, those headed westward on the Santa Fe or Oregon Trails, turned north or south, specifically to avoid the high peaks of the Rocky Mountains. But, when the news of Colorado Gold reached Kansas City, pioneers were determined to find a faster way to get there.


The Smoky Hill Trail, which followed an ancient Indian trail along the Smoky Hill River, was soon blazed and became the fastest path to the gold fields.



Butterfield Stagecoach at Fort Harker, Kansas.

Butterfield Stagecoach at Fort Harker Kansas

This image available for photographic prints and downloads HERE!


The name of the trail was given for the Smoky Hill River which was surrounded by isolated buttes near Abilene, Kansas. As these landmarks often appeared to be surrounded by hazy smoke, both the river and the trail took the name.

Though the trail was by far harder and more dangerous than the other prairie trails from the Missouri River to the Rockies, pioneers ignored the possibility of Indian attacks and the scarcity of water in their efforts to reach the Rocky Mountains.

Smoky Hill RiverTravelers along the path outfitted in Leavenworth, Kansas City, Abilene, or Salina, before following the Smoky Hill River to its headwaters in west central Colorado, near Old Cheyenne Wells. Here, the Trail divided into the North Smoky and South Smoky which took two different paths, both ending in Denver. Another path, also branched out called the "Middle Smoky Hill," which would later become known as "Starvation Trail," when the Blue brothers got caught in this desolate area and the only surviving member was forced to resort to cannibalism.


Thousands of would-be prospectors, as well as homesteaders and soldiers traveled the trail between 1859 and 1865, many in covered wagons and some on foot, pushing carts and wheelbarrows. Though a good many survived the trip, often nearly starved, others died at the hands of hostile Indians, of thirst and starvation, and of the chilling cold once that neared the mountains.


In 1858, W.H. Russell of the famous transportation firm of Majors, Russell and Waddell, conceived the idea of a line of daily coaches between the Missouri River and Denver. However, his partners thought the idea fool-hardy and refused to go in with him. Russell persevered however, and the first stage on the newly formed  Leavenworth and Pikes Peak Express reached Denver on May 17, 1859. But, as his partners suspected, the project proved to be premature and at the end of the ninety days, they took over and transferred his equipment to their regular stage line on the Platte River.


Another stage would later be developed on the Smoky Hill Trail in 1865, when David A. Butterfield determined that it could be profitable. The smooth-talking businessman soon obtained capital for the "Butterfield Overland Dispatch" and the first train left Atchison on June 4, 1865, arriving in Denver on September 23rd.


Along the 592 mile long route, relay stations were built about every twelve miles, for passenger’s rest, food, and changing of horses. Soldiers were also posted along the pathway at Fort Downer, Fort Harker, Fort Monument, Fort Wallace and other stops to protect the stations and the travelers from Indian attacks. However, the soldiers could not keep up with the furious Indians who felt their land was being invaded.


Just a year later, Butterfield sold out in March, 1866 to his rival, Ben Holladay, who in turn, sold it to Wells-Fargo the same year. During this time, the Kansas Pacific Railroad was also pushing towards Denver and by 1870, the stage line was no longer needed.


During the trail's heydays, it saw a number of colorful characters along its path, including Generals Custer, Sheridan, and Forsythe, Wild Bill Hickok, Wyatt Earp, John Wesley Hardin, Billy and Ben Thompson, Buffalo Bill Cody, and more.





Pond Creek Stage Station

Pond Creek Stage Station, courtesy Fort Wallace

 Memorial Association.


Unfortunately, it also saw many deaths along its dusty path, including the Jordon and German family massacres, the Indian raids that led to the battle of Beecher Island and Summit Springs; as well as the escape of Cheyenne leader Dull Knife and his people Fort Reno, Oklahoma, that left numerous dead along the Smoky Hill River


Today, the old trail continues to have markers placed along the route, and the Pond Creek Stage Station can still be seen in Wallace, Kansas. Several of the old forts that once protected the trail can also still be seen including Fort Hays, Fort Harker, and Fort Larned. Three museums are dedicated to the trail in Kansas, the Smoky Hills Museum in Salina, the Butterfield Trail Museum in Russell Springs, and the Fort Wallace Museum in Wallace. In Colorado; three "Mile Houses” remain in Parker, north of Parker, and in Denver.



© Kathy Weiser/Legends of America, updated November, 2012.


Also See:


A Journey to Denver via the Butterfield  Overland Dispatch



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Cattle at the Smoky Hill River near Ellsworth, Kansas

Cattle at the Smoky Hill River near Ellsworth, Kansas, 1867. Photo by Alexander Gardner.

This image available for photographic prints and downloads HERE!


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