Mobeetie, Texas – Panhandle Mother City


Historical Photograph of Mobeetie General Store

Historical Photograph of Mobeetie General Store

“Mobeetie was patronized by outlaws, thieves, cut-throats, and buffalo hunters, with a large percent of prostitutes. Taking it all, I think it was the hardest place I ever saw on the frontier except Cheyenne, Wyoming.”

— Charles Goodnight of the Goodnight/Loving Trail

Long before Mobeetie, Texas ever became an “almost ghost town”, the vast plains were home to the Apache Indians. In the 1700s the Kiowa and Comanche took over the area, running the Apache out. However, the Kiowa and Comanche were defeated in the Red River War of 1874 and the white settlers quickly began to settle the area.

In the spring of 1874, buffalo hunters moved down from Kansas and a camp was formed near Sweetwater Creek called Hidetown about two miles southeast of the site of where Old Mobeetie stands today.

Hunting buffalo to feed a wagon train of pioneers

Buffalo Hunters

In 1875, the United States government established Fort Cantonment about 2 miles northeast of Hidetown to keep the Indians on reservations in Indian Territory and establish law and order in the region. On June 5, 1875, Major H.C. Bankhead and the 4th Cavalry arrived with several companies of infantry to establish the new fort. The first buildings at the fort were made of sharpened cottonwood posts placed into the ground at close intervals, joined by poles fastened across the top. Larger logs were used as ceiling beams which were stacked with layers of brush and weeds above the beams. The structure was then covered with adobe, packed into the spaces between the posts. Board buildings would quickly replace most of the picket buildings, but some were still in use until as late as 1890.

Nearby Hidetown quickly began to develop with the settlement of the Fort and gained the name Sweetwater City. Dominated by three Dodge City, Kansas men by the names of Charles Rath, Bob Wright, and Lee Reynolds, the settlers supplied buffalo hides to the three men, who in turn, made provisions available to the settlement. With the fort established, the Dodge City men built a trading post and Sweetwater quickly grew to a population of about 150 people. The three Dodge City men claimed to have bought over 150,000 buffalo hides while they were in Sweetwater.

William "Billy" Dixon

William “Billy” Dixon

William (Billy) L. R. Dixon, the hero of the Second Battle of Adobe Walls in 1874, was wagon master of a bull train in Sweetwater for a time.  Running the train for Lee Reynolds of Dodge City, Kansas, Dixon mastered ten 7-oxen teams of three wagons to a team bringing provisions into Sweetwater and taking loads of buffalo hides back to Dodge City.

Catering primarily to the soldiers at the fort, Sweetwater had a Chinese laundry, a restaurant, a dance hall and several saloons by the summer of 1875. Like many Old West settlements, the town was primarily called home to bullwhackers, outlaws, buffalo hunters, and gamblers.

The restaurant was run by Tom O’Loughlin, and his wife, Ellen, who was said to have been the only virtuous woman in the settlement. The only other women in the small town were the dance hall and saloon girls. Numbering about 15, the girls worked the many Sweetwater Saloons, which held such names as the Pink Pussy Cat Paradise, the Buffalo Chip Mint, and the White Elephant. One saloon called the Ring Town Saloon, located about 2 ½ miles northwest of Sweetwater was designated for black men only – primarily those Buffalo Soldiers employed at the fort.

The owner of the main dance hall was Bill Thompson, brother of the noted Ben Thompson, gunman of Austin, Texas who was killed in San Antonio.

Sometime in 1875, Bat Masterson, who had scouted for Colonel Nelson A. Miles during the Red River War, landed in Sweetwater. Working as a faro dealer in Henry Fleming’s Saloon, Masterson became embroiled in an argument with Sergeant Melvin A. King over a card game and a dance hall beauty named Mollie Brennan. The argument quickly led to gunplay and King was left dead.

Marker in Mobeetie Cemetery for Mollie Brennan. Photo by Dave Alexander.

However, in the melee, King’s shot passed through Mollie Brennan’s body, killing her, and then hit Masterson in the pelvis. The injury caused Bat to walk with a limp for the rest of his life. In 1876, Masterson returned to Dodge City, Kansas where he became a lawman there for many years. Other visitors to Sweetwater during this lawless time included Patrick F. Garrett and Poker Alice.

By February 21, 1876, the fort was renamed Fort Elliott by General Order No. 3 of the Division of Missouri. By that time, Fort Elliott had officer’s quarters, sufficient barracks for six companies of enlisted men, a headquarters building, hospital, laundresses’ quarters, storehouses and cavalry stables all built of lumber.

Most of the supplies that were needed for the Fort were brought in from Dodge City, Kansas. Civilians who settled near the post produced food for which they found a ready market at the post.

On April 12, 1876, Wheeler County was one of 26 counties created out of Clay County Territory and was named for Supreme Court Justice Royal T. Wheeler.

Mobeetie, Texas, early 1900s

Mobeetie, Texas, the early 1900s

In 1878, it was discovered that Sweetwater was located on the Military Reserve and the town had to relocate. Moving two miles northwest to section 45, this proved to be a boost for the settlement, with its location nearer to the fort.

Wheeler County was officially organized in 1879 by a petition signed by 150 qualified voters and Sweetwater was elected as the county seat.  The settlement then applied for its own post office with the town name of Sweetwater. However, the name was rejected because Texas already had a town by that name. It occurred to some to ask the local Indians the name of Sweetwater as spoken in their language.

The word was Mobeetie and it became the name of the town. It wasn’t until many years later that a Comanche related that Mobeetie didn’t actually mean “sweet water,” but instead, meant “buffalo dung.”

By 1880, Fort Elliott was able to procure from the locals, hay, some lumber, shoes, saddles, wagon wheels, clothing, and many staple foods. These early entrepreneurs constituted the first manufacturing in the Texas Panhandle.

Old Mobeetie Stone Courthouse

Old Mobeetie Stone Courthouse

Throughout the 1880s Mobeetie was the commercial center of much of the Panhandle, connected by a mail route with Tascosa, to the west. Rath’s mercantile store catered to area ranches and Fort Elliott dominated the economy. Mobeetie’s main street expanded to include livery stables, wagon yards, a barbershop, drugstore, blacksmith shop, two hotels, numerous boarding houses, and an increased number of the ever-present saloons.

The first courthouse in the Texas Panhandle was built in Mobeetie in 1880 by Irish stone masons who quarried the stone from the Emanuel Dubbs homestead nine miles east of Mobeetie. Just one year later Mobeetie became the judicial center of the Thirty-fifth District, which comprised fifteen counties. Several lawyers set up shop, including Temple Houston, son of Sam Houston, who served a term in Mobeetie as district attorney before his election to the state Senate.

Mobeetie continued to have its share of gamblers, rustlers, and prostitutes. However, Captain George W. Arrington and his Texas Ranger Company proved an effective deterrent to the lawless element. Arrington was elected county sheriff in 1882 and throughout his term made his home in the two-story stone jail, which still stands today. In the same year the Texas Panhandle, the region’s first newspaper, began operation. By 1886 Mobeetie had a population of about 300.

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