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Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway - Page 2

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Continue the journey along the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway by return to New Mexico Highway 72 and continuing east about five miles to the Yankee area.


When settlers first moved west along the trails to this area, the grass was so tall and thick that at times it was necessary to navigate with a compass. On a knoll to the south there used to be a mansion built by Yankee entrepreneur A.D. Ensight after the turn of the century. Before the settlement of Yankee was formed, farmers from nearby Johnson Mesa dug coal on the slopes of the mesa for their own personal use. In 1904, the Chicorica Coal Company, backed by a Wall Street brokerage firm and the Santa Fe Railroad, promoted by the entrepreneur A. D. Ensign, developed the coal beds on Johnson and Barela mesas. As the Yankee mines continued to develop, frame houses were built and the population grew to several thousand residents by 1907 featuring a school and numerous businesses. The mansion that ensign built was a beautiful two story home that featured solid mahogany, velvet furniture, oriental rugs, and marble statues. But the Ensign estate changed hands several times and by 1923 its treasures had been sold and the mansion fell into a state of disrepair. All traces of Yankee have vanished and the site is now occupied by a cattle ranch.


Johnson Mesa


Johnson Mesa Church, New MexicoHighway 72 twists and turns as the road climbs up to Johnson Mesa. Along the 8 mile drive you can often see deer, turkey, and bear on this climb, as well as gorgeous views to the lower elevations. Suddenly the road takes a turn and you will find yourself on an enormous plain. On top of this high, grassy plateau, once sat the small community of Bell, a progressive farming settlement, whose residents established the first telephone connections in New Mexico. Bell, built two thousand feet above the valley floor, looked out upon the vast valley below.


In the early 1880s, Marion Bell, a railroad construction worker, led a group of fellow workers and miners to the mesa top, trying to find a safer and more predictable occupation. Several families tried their hand at farming while some miners tried to juggle both occupations. For those ambitious fellows working at both farming and mining, carrier pigeons were dispatched from Blossburg to fly up to the mesa to notify the miners that they were needed down in the Raton Valley.


Atop Johnson Mesa, New MexicoAt one time there was a family living on every 160 acres of land and the mesa boasted five schools, a church and many recreational facilities for family life. Times were often hard for the mesa people where winters were often severe and the entire mesa was snowbound.


After World War I, people began leaving the mesa for better opportunities and in 1933, Bell closed its post office.


Today a few families make their home on the mesa during the summer but no one lives there during the winter. Still standing is about a dozen deserted farm buildings, the St. John Methodist Episcopal Church and the cemetery.




Johnson Mesa, New Mexico Cemetery

Cemetery Atop Johnson Mesa, Kathy Weiser,  September, 2008.

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Coming down Johnson Mesa, New Mexico

Coming down Johnson Mesa. Tthere's a reason why this is

 a scenic drive, Kathy Weiser, September, 2008.

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Folsom, New MexicoFolsom

As you continue the drive on Highway 72 headed for Folsom, the descent from the Mesa is spectacular. Folsom is 19 miles past the old settlement of Bell.

The town of Folsom named for President Cleveland's wife Frances Folsom, began as a tiny hamlet close to the present town. The first person to arrive on the scene, Madison Emery, arrived in 1862 where he built a cabin and, as more families arrived, homes, stores and other businesses sprang up. Emery erected a rough hotel and the small settlement was named Madison.


Madison was the nearest settlement to the "Robbers' Roost" just north of Kenton, Oklahoma, which was home to a band of outlaws led by Captain William Coe in the late 1860's.

When the outlaws sensed a raid on their "Roost", they would often hide out in Madison. Coe was eventually caught in Madison by the US Cavalry with the help of Emery Madison's wife and step-son. He was taken to Pueblo, Colorado to await trial, but was lynched by a group of vigilantes before he had a chance. After Coe was captured and killed, the rest of the gang must have scattered because they were never heard from again.


The coming of the Colorado and Southern Railroad in 1887 killed the settlement of Madison because the line bypassed the original town. Today there is little physical evidence that it ever existed except foundations of the old grist mill. A new settlement sprang up about 8 miles northeast of Madison and was originally called Ragtown, because the shelters and business establishments were all tents. Finally it was renamed Folsom.


One of the first citizens in Folsom was W.A. Thompson who was the proprietor of the saloon and deputy sheriff. Arriving from Missouri, where he had been charged with murder, he quickly racked up a lurid record in Folsom.


He was said to have shot and killed a friend because he visited another saloon. On another occasion, enraged at a boy for taunting him, Thompson chased the boy with a six-shooter and when he failed to catch him, turned his guns on a fellow officer and a customer emerging from a store, killing one of them. Though Thompson was captured and tried in Clayton, he was acquitted and went back to Oklahoma, where he was said to have killed another man.


Folsom New mexico Historic HotelBy 1895, Folsom had two mercantile stores, three saloons, several other businesses and one of the largest stockyards north of Fort Worth, Texas. The railroad town was planned as a beautiful city and expected to develop as a luxury resort community under the auspices of the Colorado and Southern Railroad and once was a contender for the Union County Seat.


In 1908 the town had a new telephone switchboard which was operated by Sarah J. Rooke in her home on the edge of town. One night in August, 1908 Sarah answered her buzzer to hear a voice shouting that a flash flood was racing down the river and would strike the town within minutes. Sarah rang one phone after another warning people to get out of town before the water hit.  She was still sitting at her switchboard when her own house was swept from its foundations and her body was found eight miles below the town. Most of town's buildings were carried away and 17 people drowned.


But, Folsom's most prominent citizen was the "Folsom Man", existing only by deduction. Archeologists had long been interested in an arroyo close to the town where they had found evidence of artifacts dating from 10,000 years ago. In 1927 more careful digging revealed bones belonging to the ice age animals, most of them slain by man-made weapons.


n several instances flint points, which showed careful workmanship, were imbedded bones. Although no human remains were found, the discovery dated the existence of man in North America to 1000 B.C., much earlier than previously estimated.


Now a semi ghost town, Folsom is a pleasant ranching community with several historic buildings. The old railroad station, moved from the right-of-way around 1970 is now a private residence; the abandoned stone two-story Folsom Hotel still stands, as well as an old gas station on the corner, several false-front stores on the south side of Main Street; and the general merchandise store, built in 1896, is now a museum. Unfortunately, it is unkempt, musty, covered in dust, and during our visit; operated by by a rude and unwelcoming woman. We say "pass on the museum."


South of town, in the Folsom Cemetery, a granite memorial, erected by her fellow workers, commemorates Sarah J. Rooke's heroism in the many lives that she saved.


Folsom Falls and Toll-Gate Canyon

Folsom, take NM Highway 456 four miles north where you will see a natural spring-fed waterfall called Folsom Falls, which is a favorite fishing hole in the area and has picnic grounds.

Four miles north of Folsom Falls is a detour opportunity along NM Highway 551, north through Toll-Gate Canyon. A historical marker explains the unique history of this famous wagon trail, where Charles Goodnight trailed many herds of cattle from Texas to Wyoming from 1866 to 1869. Thinking that the toll through Raton Pass was too high he found the Toll-Gate Canyon. An old tollgate building and old rock jail are still intact.


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