Pawnee County, Kansas on the Santa Fe Trail

Santa Fe Trail through Pawnee County, Kansas.

Santa Fe Trail through Pawnee County, Kansas.

The Santa Fe Trail continued into present-day Pawnee County, Kansas, where travelers had to choose between the “Wet Route,” which provided good grazing and water for large numbers of stock, and the shorter but water-limited “Dry Route.” This section ran Southwest of Pawnee Rock in Ash Creek Crossing to Fort Dodge.

Near Larned, the trail split into three main, separate trails, with branches joining them to Dodge City, Kansas. The “wet route” or River Road crossing was on the South edge of present-day Larned, Kansas. The second, the dry route crossing, was on the West edge of the present Larned State Hospital grounds. The third, apparently later established as a stage line crossing, was approximately ½ mile East of the present site of Fort Larned National Historic Site.

Wet Route in Pawnee County

This route closely follows US Highway 56 along the Arkansas River to the Southwest of Larned, Kansas, to present-day Kinsley. From Dodge City westward, it follows the Arkansas River to Dodge City, Kansas, and continues to Bent’s Fort, Colorado. West of Dodge City, this was called the “Mountain Route.”

The first stop along the West Route was Ash Creek Crossing, about five miles Southwest of Pawnee Rock. This crossing was not difficult, but it developed into a campsite for Trail travelers. Decades later, in 1947, the farmer who owned the crossing filled it in to create more farmland.

After traveling about another six miles, the pioneers came to present-day Larned, Kansas. Here is Sibley’s Camp, where the United States Survey team, led by George Sibley, camped on the Santa Fe Trail Survey Expedition on August 31, 1825. The historic campsite is located at 502 West 2nd Street.

Pawnee Fork Crossing, Kansas.

Pawnee Fork Crossing, Kansas.

They continued along the North bank of the Arkansas River, where they had to cross the Pawnee Fork, near the US Highway 56 bridge crossing of the Pawnee River. Railroad and highway construction have long since destroyed the original site, but its steep banks remain, testifying to its status as one of the trail’s most challenging crossings. In the past, the East bank rose about 20-30 feet above the water, and while the west bank wasn’t nearly as steep, it still required additional men and teams to pull the wagons up.

The Wet Route continued to Coon Creek, crossing about 1 ½ miles West of Garfield, Kansas, located on the North side of US Highway 56, East of Coon Creek Bridge. The crossing could sometimes be difficult and was situated in an area of hostile Indian activity, as evidenced by the battle sites that followed. Wagon ruts are still visible on the creek’s North bank.

Beyond the Coon Creek Bridge, about four miles away, was a site referred to as Plain Camp. The site, marked with a marker, was called “Plain Camp” because it had no distinguishing features. It is located about ½ mile South of the marker.

About 9 ½ miles Southwest of Garfield is the site of “Love’s Defeat.” In June 1847, Lieutenant John Love led Company B of Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, down the Santa Fe Trail. On June 26, they were attacked by Comanche Indians. Six soldiers were killed, and another six were wounded. The battle site is marked by the Wet/Dry Routes Chapter of the Santa Fe Trail and lies on the South side of US Highway 56, just beyond the old railroad bed.

The Wet Route continued into present-day Edwards County.

Dry Route in Pawnee County

The Original Dry Route branched from the Wet Route about 3.5 miles Southwest of Pawnee Fork, crossing at the Southwest corner of Larned, Kansas, on US 56. This route crossed a dry ridge north of Garfield and Kinsley, Kansas, to another Coon Creek Crossing. It then traveled North of present-day Offerle, Kansas, to present-day Dodge City, Kansas. A later Dry Route began Southwest of Pawnee Rock and ran North of present-day Larned to the West edge of the present Larned State Hospital grounds before continuing to Dodge City.

Pawnee River, Kansas

Pawnee River, Kansas.

The Dry Route traveled along the North side of the Pawnee River, passing the Santa Fe Trail Center today. Located two miles West of Larned on the South side of Kansas Highway 156, this unique museum, library, and educational institution interprets the Santa Fe Trail. It preserves artifacts and manuscripts that reflect the blending of major cultures along the Trail and features interpretive exhibits, learning programs, and resource materials. The outdoor portion of the museum includes a sod house, schoolhouse, and dugout.

The trail then continues to the Fort Larned National Historic Site on Kansas Highway 156, six miles West of Larned. From 1859 to 1878, Fort Larned was one of the major military installations on the Santa Fe Trail. Nine of the ten original stone buildings remain today, and the tenth was reconstructed in 1988. This is one of the best-preserved frontier military posts in the American West and along the entire Santa Fe Trail. One building has been adapted to serve as a museum, interpretive center, and administrative office. Santa Fe Trail wagon ruts are located in a detached area five miles South of the Fort.

The Pawnee Fork Crossing of the Dry Route is located on the West edge of Larned State Hospital grounds. You can still see and cross it on a small bridge. This crossing was also sometimes difficult, and a campsite was established here. In 1859, a mail and stage station was located at this crossing, which led to the establishment of Fort Larned, first located nearer this crossing than the present military post.

Fort Larned Parade Ground

Fort Larned Parade Ground.

Just West of the crossing was a trading post called Boyd’s Ranch, which was just off the Fort Larned Military Reservation and thus could provide off-post entertainment in the form of liquor, gambling, and prostitutes. Most trail traffic likely used the dry route crossing near Boyd’s Ranch.

The route continued through Pawnee County past the Rock Hollow Campsite, named for a nearby sandstone outcropping. It then continued into Edwards County.

 

©Kathy Alexander/Legends of Kansas, updated September 2026.

 

 

 

Also See:

Fort Larned, Kansas

Kansas Santa Fe Trail Photo Gallery

Kansas Main Page

Santa Fe Trail Across Kansas

Santa Fe Trail – Pathway to the Southwest

Source: See Santa Fe Trail Writing Credits