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Ulysses, Kansas - Page 2

            

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Though she finally won the honor of county seat, the town went deeply into debt winning the title. In 1909, when Ulysses was unable to climb out of its profound financial burden, and to prevent foreclosure of the entire town site, the community just decided to move. Loading every building onto skids, the townspeople relocated three miles across the prairie to the present day site of Ulysses. All the lots in the old town were deeded back to the East Coast bondholders and only a masonry school was left behind.

 

But, the troubles weren’t over. In 1898, the county suffered from severe drop failure causing a panic and reducing the population from 1,500 to 400 in Ulysses, and later only to some 40 souls. Buildings were moved away, banks closed and merchants let their stock of goods run down.

 

 

New Ulysses

"New Ulysses" in its early days, photo courtesy Wichita State University.

 

The "new” town was officially called "New Ulysses” and the old site was referred to as "Old Ulysses.” The Hotel Edwards had to be cut into three sections for moving. Today, it is the only remaining business building moved from the old town that still exists. It now rests on the Grant County Museum grounds, restored  to its original appearance.

 

"Old Ulysses" was located about three miles east of Ulysses on U.S. Highway 160. The site is now on private property.

 

In the 1920s natural gas was discovered in the area surrounding Ulysses. The Hugoton natural gas field called "The Gas Capital of the United States," spans over 4,800 square miles. This discovery led to strong area prosperity.

 

In 1921, the town name was official changed to "Ulysses” rather than "New Ulysses.”

 

Today, a portion of the Ulysses high school grounds is on the old site of of Appomattox. Part of the old Hotel Edwards is a feature of the local museum, and history abounds at nearby Wagon Bed Spring south of town.

 

The vast plains that surround Ulysses afford the most spectacular sunrises and sunsets that one has ever seen. For the hunting enthusiast, the area is renowned for its excellent deer and pheasant hunting.

 

The Cimarron Cutoff on the Santa Fe Trail passed just east of the current site of Ulysses, turned south and crossed the path of current highway US 160 following the Cimarron River.

 

A famous watering spot along the Santa Fe Trail, Wagon Bed Spring, is located ten miles south of Ulysses. The Cimarron cutoff was a risk to those early travelers, as the journey was periled with dry creek beds and frequent Indian attacks. However, there were many willing to take the risk to save hundreds of miles of travel, rather than taking the "safer” trail through Colorado. The "La Jornada," as the dry crossing between the Cimarron and the Arkansas Rivers became known, was the shortest road from Fort Leavenworth, Kansas to the Southwest. It was near here that noted Western explorer and fur trader Jedediah Smith, spent four days without water and was killed by Comanche just as he reached the river.

 

Though no military post was ever established at Wagon Bed Spring, hundreds of soldiers refreshed themselves there from the start of the Mexican War in 1846 until the railroads replaced the wagon road.

 

 

Wagon Bed Spring in Grant County, Kansas

Wagon Bed Spring in Grant County, Kansas Kathy Weiser,

 September, 2008.

 

1864 was the bloodiest year for Indian attacks all along the Santa Fe Trail, and 15 men were killed at Wagon Bed Spring during a two week period. Soon, General James H. Carleton, commanding the Department of New Mexico, sent 100 men to Wagon Bed Spring with rations for sixty days. Today, the site still provides "treasure" hunters with caches of lead balls, empty cartridges and arrowheads.

 

In 1961, Wagon Bed Spring was recognized as a National Historic Landmark. However, the spring itself is long dry from irrigating the fertile fields of western Kansas.

 

Ulysses is located in Grant County in southwest Kansas.

 

P.S. - This is the small Kansas town that I grew up in.

 

 

Attractions:

Grant County Museum - The museum is an official National Park Service Santa Fe Trail Visitor Center. The museum complex includes an old adobe building that was built in 1938 as a county shop and includes all manner of historical items of the area. Also included is the Hotel Edwards, where you feel as if you have stepped back in time. The complex also includes a one-room schoolhouse. Hours: Monday-Friday 10:00 - 5:00, Saturday & Sunday 1:00 - 5:00. 300 E. Highway 160, (620) 356-3009

Wagon Bed Spring - Wagon Bed Spring Historical Site is 10 miles south on Hwy 125; follow the signs.

 

© Kathy Weiser/Legends of America, updated August, 2011.

 

Hotel Edwards Ullysses Kansas

Vintage Hotel Edwards, courtesy Wichita State University.

Old  Hotel Edwards in Ulysses, Kansas

The Hotel Edwards today is a museum in Ulysses, Kathy Weiser, April, 2009.

 

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