Ghost Towns in New Mexico's Indian Country on Route 66

Ghost Towns in Indian Country

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San Fidel is a small Hispanic community that includes a number of picturesque buildings. Though there are still people that live here, San Fidel is long past its prime. In the old days there were a number of cafes and automobile services in this fading town. However, today it appears that the only thing operating is the St. Josephs Catholic Church, its private Catholic School across the street, and the post office which has been doing business since 1919. Back in the heydays of Route 66, it was not at all uncommon to see Indians sitting along the roadway selling pottery. Today, a stray dog walking down the road is about the most life that you sell in this old town.

This old cafe in San Fidel has certainly seen some better days,

December, 2004, Kathy Weiser.

From here, old Route 66 can be traveled all the way to Grants, some 18 miles ahead. However, there is a low underpass just beyond San Fidel so large vehicles might want to think about rejoining I-40.

Between San Fidel and the ghost town of McCartys stands the remains of one of the ever popular Whiting Brothers Complex. Once hosting a motel, gas station and café, it was abandoned long ago due to fire damage. Only the old gas station, its large yellow and orange signs, and large parking lot filled with debris, remains.

This Catholic School in San Fidel still teaches students up to the 9th grade,

December, 2004, Kathy Weiser.

Whiting Brothers Station between San Fidel and McCartys,

New Mexico , December, 2004, Kathy Weiser.

Though the Whiting Brothers complex is gone, the orange and yellow signs still stand tall, December, 2004, Kathy Weiser.

McCartys

Some five miles beyond San Fidel, you will arrive at the ghost town of McCartys. McCartys, also referred to as McCarty and Santa María De Ácoma, began as a farming and trading community on the Acoma Indian reservation. The town was named McCarty for a railroad contractor who had his camp here when the AT&SF railroad came through in the 1880s. A post office was established in 1887 that continued to operate until 1911. There are many remnants of the historical past in this quiet little town. In the early days of Route 66, women and children, dressed in traditional Pueblo costumes could be seen in abundance seated under brush shelters selling baskets and Acoma pottery.

Just above the settlement is a beautiful church which has been recently rebuilt in a one half size replica of the ancient church of old Acoma. Built in the classic example of Spanish Colonial style architecture, the interior provides a peek at several wood carvings that are notable works of art.

McCartys is the gateway to the Acoma Pueblo, some 13 miles to the southeast on BIA-38.

From McCartys to Grants, this old section of historic pavement has been placed on the National Register of Historic Places and you will see why when you travel this vintage ribbon of the road. All along the journey you will see black masses of hardened lava on both sides of road. These great lava flows ranging from 50 to 200 feet wide, curve about the flat valley all along the route. This lava flow, called “The Malpais,” meaning “Evil Country,” is one of the most recent in U.S. history, occurring between 1,000 and 2,000 years ago. Navaho legend says that this lava is the blood of the great giant who was slain by the Twin War Gods in the Zuñi Mountains. Here in this area lies the remains of deserted pueblos, caves of perpetual ice, hideouts of Old West outlaws, and numerous tales of buried treasure.

An old Model-T travels through The Malpais,

photo courtesy National Park Service.

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